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Fender '65 Princeton Reverb

Princeton Reverb Vintage Reissue PRRI

This is a Great Little Amp. Made in the USA. The Cosmetics faithfully follow the Original 1965 Blackface Pre-CBS Amp. Obviously the Internals are a bit different, Gone is the Eyelet-Board construction, replaced with a PCB. The Amp is 100% Valve design with a Valve Rectifier. The Reverb is to die for, again, all Valve driven using a NOS Accutronics (Also made in the USA) Long Tank. It is an Extremely expensive 15 Watt Amp but you do get what you pay for. Nothing else can touch this Amp for Build quality or Performance. The Stock Unit has a Few 'Issues' but as soon as you plug your Guitar in - You know it's a Top Class Fender. No other Amp sounds quite the same. If you like Fender Amps - This is one to get......

My modifications 'Enhance' the performance of an already good Amp. If you own a PRRI, you will recognise some of the 'Issues' that need attention.

Modifications

1. - At Higher Volumes the Stock Amp has WAY too much 'Bass' - The Speaker 'Waffles' and 'Flaps' and it does not sound good. A simple component change in the Preamp sorts this problem out.

2. - The Reverb is the Best, there is just too much of it. Anything over a setting of '3' on the dial is OTT. I Reduce the Available Reverb and this has a Positive side effect, It increases the Preamp Gain Slightly.

3. - The Stock Amp does not have a 'Standby' Switch. Strictly speaking, any Amp using a Valve Rectifier does not need Standby, but it is still a nice feature to have. I replace the stock Switch with a Carling 3 Position Power Switch - - - 'Off/Standby/On'.

4. - All Fender Amps supplied in the UK have their Mains Voltage set at 230vac. I reset this to the correct UK Voltage of 240vac. This helps to reduce excessive 'Heater' voltage and lets the Amp run a bit cooler.

5. - I do 2 Modifications to the Power Supply - Increase the Smoothing Capacity for 'Tighter Bass' -and- fit a 'Safety' resistor so that the Amp no longer holds it's Lethal Charge when switched Off.

6. - All of the 'Tone' Capacitors in the Amp are Replaced with 'Orange Drop' and 'Silver Mica' Parts. This Increases Definition and brings the sound closer to the Original 1965 Amp.

7. - Full Lead Dress - All 'AC' Voltage (Transformer + Heater) wires in a Valve Amp must be tightly twisted or they will Induce 'Noise' into the Amp Circuit. Taking the time to twist all of the wires and placing them in the correct location will make this Amp Quieter (Less Background Noise - Buzz-Hum-Hiss).

8. - Optional Upgrade - The Stock Amp is rated at 15 Watts RMS. With a few component changes the Amp can produce 19 Watts RMS with NO harmful side effects.

9. - Variable Boost Footswitch - Switches the Internal Boost (Tone Bypass) Circuit On-or-Off. The Footswitch is fitted with a Variable Boost Level Control (From Zero -to- Max) and gives a Huge 'Boost' to the MID Frequencies and Harmonics. Connects to the Back of the Amp next to the 'Reverb/Vibrato' footswitch socket. With the Variable Boost Footswitch 'On', the Tone Controls (Treble and Bass) are Bypassed. Metal Case, 12 foot lead, Red LED (On) Indicator.

10. - NFB Switch - (Negative Feedback On-or-Off) - Almost all Fender Amps use 'NFB'. This is an Internal Loop that sends part of the Speaker Signal 'Back' to a Previous stage in the Amplifier Circuit. It helps to keep the Amp 'Clean' and allows 'Tone Shaping'. If the 'NFB' is turned Off - the Amp becomes a Lot more Aggressive and Harmonic.

11. - I have Modified quite a few of these PRRI Amps and almost without exception the Factory Fitted '6V6GT' Power Valves are Faulty -or- Rapidly Fail under Load. If required, I replace these 2 Valves with JJ '6V6S's then test the Amp under full load to confirm correct operation.

12. - There is one other (well documented) Issue with these Amps. At Lower Volumes, No Problem, but if the Amp is used at High Volumes the Upper-Rear 'Kick' Panel vibrates (Rattles) in sympathy with the Speaker. I have seen loads of 'Cures' for this problem on the Internet, including Metal Bracing and a Thicker Panel. The Simple cure is to remove the Panel from the Amp, if you need to.

I can Supply a New Amp with the Modifications Done -or- If you have one of these Amps I can Modify it for you........Great Pricing and Rapid Turnaround.

Please 'CONTACT' me for a Quote.......

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